Roughly 20 km from Amman, as you head towards Qasr Kharana and the UNESCO-listed Qasr Amra, lies the expansive reservoir at Al-Muwaqqar, just south of Highway 40. Still operational today, this reservoir likely served as a crucial lifeline for passing caravans and the local community. Its proximity to the remains of an Umayyad desert complex adds layers of historical intrigue to this area.
Exploring the Umayyad Complex
Perched on a hill above the reservoir are the remnants of an ancient Umayyad structure, one of Jordan’s famous Desert Castles. Although much of its splendour has decayed over the centuries, glimpses of its former majesty remain. Sandstone columns and a meticulously paved floor hint at a site that once radiated grandeur. Capitals once adorning the palace are now scattered—some integrated into modern homes throughout the town, while others have been lost to time.
Over the years, the site has taken on a utilitarian role, now serving as livestock pens for locals, with some areas doubling as dumping grounds. However, detailed historical accounts and literary evidence tie this palace to Caliph Yazid II, revealing an era when this site carried significant architectural and administrative importance.
Archaeological Discoveries
Though much of the complex was lost by the time early explorers like Alois Musil visited in the early 20th century, some features persisted. By the 1960s, K.A.C. Creswell noted that little remained of its grandeur except for atmospheric subterranean vaulted structures, low walls, and scattered paved sections nestled between the houses of the modern-day village.
Despite the loss, some artefacts were salvaged and preserved.
One of the most significant findings is a capital, now housed in the Archaeological Museum on the Amman Citadel. This artefact, bearing a Kufic inscription, provides critical context for the reservoir—it states that the reservoir was constructed by order of Yazid II between 722 and 723 AD. Remarkably, the capital was found in 1943, in a private yard mere metres from the palace ruins, broken neatly into two pieces but still fitting perfectly together.
Byzantine Echoes
Adding another layer to Al-Muwaqqar’s rich history are the remains of an ancient Byzantine settlement located near the palace. These ruins feature a visible double wall extending diagonally from the southwestern corner of the complex, hinting at defensive or structural elements of the past. Archaeological excavations have also uncovered fragments of mosaic flooring and ornately decorated lintels, providing a glimpse into the artistry and craftsmanship of the Byzantine period.
A Site of Historical Layers
Al-Muwaqqar is a captivating tapestry of history, with overlapping narratives that speak to both its Islamic and Byzantine heritage. From its practical reservoir, essential for survival in this arid region, to the surviving ruins and artefacts of its palace, this site is a treasure trove for history enthusiasts. While time has eroded much of its physical structure, the stories and artefacts that remain breathe life into its ancient past, inviting visitors to imagine the vibrant activity that once thrived here.
